Having been a part of the Fratello team for more than five years, I suspect some people might find it mildly shocking that it’s taken me this long to add a Speedmaster to my collection. With Fratello being so closely associated with the mighty Speedy, not owning one almost felt sacrilegious. The truth is simpler. I always knew I would own a Speedmaster one day, but I just never knew which one.
That’s the blessing and the curse of the Omega Speedmaster. There isn’t just one. There are dozens of references, dial variations, limited editions, and oddball outliers. Vintage, neo-vintage, modern. Straight-lugs, twisted lugs. Manual winding, automatic winding. I never wanted to rush into buying the obvious choice, especially one that I’d see on every other wrist at a watch meet-up.
Setting some early rules
In my quest, I set a few ground rules for myself. I wanted a watch in new or excellent condition, and I wanted a manual-wind Speedmaster. That immediately removed a huge chunk of the catalog from consideration, which was oddly reassuring. Constraints are helpful when you’re faced with this much variety.
Image: The Watch Club
The ones that almost made it
There were several near misses along the way. For example, I’ve always had a soft spot for the Speedmaster ’57 Trilogy with Broad Arrow hands. It has a lot of what I love about the Speedmaster story, and visually, it really works for me. Still, something held me back. In the end, it never quite tipped from admiration into inevitability. Perhaps it was the 1861 versus the newer 3861 movement…
The recent First Omega in Space came even closer. I love that blue-gray dial, and there were moments when I was convinced that would be the one. Then a friend of a friend bought one, and suddenly my enthusiasm cooled. I know it’s a somewhat petty way of thinking, but I didn’t want to end up with the same watch as someone in my immediate social circle. I suspect most collectors will understand that feeling, even if we don’t always say it out loud.
The white-dial Speedmaster Professional also caught my attention. It’s a great watch, and I know plenty of people who adore it. For me, though, the red “Speedmaster” text was the deal-breaker. It’s amazing how a single line of text can completely change how a watch feels on the wrist. For others, that detail is the whole point. For me, it just never quite clicked.
As wearable as it is handsome
The Speedy that finally stuck — The Calibre 321
The turning point came recently at the Speedy Tuesday event in Hong Kong, where Omega unveiled the new “Reverse Panda” models. They’re excellent watches, but once again, they weren’t quite right for me. During the pre-dinner cocktail hour, I found myself chatting with a few collectors, one of whom was wearing the Speedmaster Calibre 321.
Of course, this watch wasn’t new to me. RJ owns one and has written about his love for it many times. I’d tried it on more than once before, and every time, it had felt perfect on the wrist. The problem had always been the price. It was a watch I admired from a safe distance, convinced it would remain out of reach. But when I saw it again in Hong Kong and strapped it on once more, something finally clicked. This wasn’t just a Speedmaster I liked. This was the Speedmaster for me — I had to have the Calibre 321.
Making it happen
After a roughly 22-hour journey home to the UK, I started looking almost immediately. Buying new wasn’t realistic for my budget. However, with a bit of patience, I found a pre-owned example in excellent condition at Swiss Horology in London. It came with the full set and a price that made sense. Big shout-out to Dia at Swiss Horology for helping make this happen and turning things around in just 48 hours!
The Speedy funds weren’t just sitting there waiting, though. To make it happen, I part-exchanged my Rolex Explorer II. Ironically, I had bought that watch on the way home from a Speedy Tuesday event back in 2022. Somehow, then, the journey feels like it’s come full circle.
A large part of the allure — the Omega 321 movement
Why this Speedy works for me
I’m not going to wax lyrical about the specifications here. By now, most readers will know them inside out. What matters more to me is why this particular Speedmaster works so well on my wrist and in my day-to-day life. As RJ pointed out in his original article six years ago, the Calibre 321 isn’t a watch for Moonwatch purists. It’s neither a like-for-like reissue of any other watch, nor is it a Moonwatch. It is, however, a combination of features and design choices that come together in a way that feels just right for me.
The sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel are a big part of that. They suit my lifestyle far better than a Hesalite crystal and aluminum bezel ever would. They’re a little tougher, a little more forgiving, and they’ll stay looking cleaner for longer. Visually, I’ve also always preferred straight-lug cases, and the dial feels a bit cleaner without the word “Professional” printed on it. Then, there’s the movement. Omega’s caliber 321 isn’t just historically important; it’s also genuinely beautiful to look at. Having it visible through a display case back adds something special every time you take the watch off.
Finally, the bracelet, clasp included, deserves a mention. It’s one of the best that Omega makes today. Yes, I am somewhat biased now, but I stand by that claim. Comfortable, nicely finished, and properly thought through, it completes the watch in a way that feels cohesive rather than compromised. No, this isn’t the perfect Speedmaster for everyone. But it feels like the perfect Speedmaster for me, and that’s what truly matters.
Living with the Speedmaster Calibre 321
Living with the Calibre 321 on the wrist, I’m still very much in the honeymoon period. That much is unavoidable. What’s surprised me more, though, is how naturally it has settled into my collection. That’s something we don’t talk about enough when buying a new watch — not just whether you love it in isolation but whether it actually fits. Does it earn its place? Does it make sense in your rotation?
In this case, the answer has been an immediate and very clear “yes.” I haven’t had a single moment when I’ve sat back and questioned the decision. No second-guessing. No quiet doubts creeping in after the excitement fades. I feel completely confident that I bought the right watch, and that feeling alone is worth a lot. So far, it feels like a watch that was always meant to end up here. And that, more than anything else, tells me I got this one right.
Taking the long way around
The last time I made what felt like a genuinely big purchase, at least by my standards, was when I bought my Hermès H08. That was another watch that lived in my head for years before it ever made it onto my wrist. I didn’t rush it. I took the time to wait and see it in person, to try it on, and to let the idea of owning it properly settle. Only when that initial excitement didn’t fade did I finally pull the trigger.
When I did, it was everything I hoped it would be. The H08 has since become a firm keeper in my collection and one I’ve worn and enjoyed regularly ever since. Looking back, that slow, deliberate approach felt like the right way to do things, and it has shaped how I think about buying watches more generally.
Looking back, I’ve realized that deep down I knew all along which Speedmaster I wanted. The long search wasn’t really about finding the right watch as much as trying to convince myself that an alternative might be good enough. The truth is, had I ended up with one of those near misses, I don’t think I’d be enjoying it in quite the same way. There’s a real satisfaction in finally owning the watch you actually want, not the one you settled for. That’s the takeaway I’d pass on to anyone reading this. Take your time, but when the moment comes, buy the watch you truly want. And if that watch happens to be the Speedmaster Calibre 321, I can wholeheartedly recommend it.
For all technical specs and so on, you can read “What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special” by RJ here.