It has been nothing but an enjoyable experience to watch Fratello’s Thomas van Straaten build his watch brand. I greatly respect the passion and determination that Thomas puts into VPC Watch Co. Today, VPC launches its second model, the Type 39VM. This new dive watch is nothing short of impressive. The fact that the Type 39VM has a 200m depth rating and a mere 9.34mm profile is an accomplishment that will undoubtedly have people talking. But I can assure you that it is only one of the many aspects that make this an impressive sophomore release from VPC. Let me elaborate on that.
If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you may have enjoyed Thomas’s VPC adventures in his Building A Watch Brand series. The fruits of his hard labor flourished into the inaugural VPC Type 37HW in 2024. For the Type 37HW, Thomas collaborated with designer Max Resnick to create his ultimate GADA watch. A little less than two years later, the VPC Type 39VM is a follow-up by the same duo, and it builds on the success of the first release. This new Type 39VM embodies everything that Thomas learned over the past couple of years, resulting in a diver that is both true to VPC’s brand identity and a standout release in the most popular category of watches.
The story of the VPC Type 39VM
I could tell you Thomas’s story about the Type 39VM, but I’d like to share the story of how I’ve seen the watch come to fruition over the past 12 months. As the owner of the Type 37HW Dove Grey, I was more than curious to find out how Thomas would crack the code for creating a VPC dive watch.
Additionally, I was particularly intrigued because I had the opportunity to assist Thomas in developing a VPC brand strategy, and I couldn’t wait to see how those fruitful discussions resulted in the next watch. To be fully transparent, while I had a hand in making that strategy, one thing that Thomas doesn’t need my assistance with is creating his watches. He is very clear and determined when it comes to product development. Because of this, I was able to enjoy what Thomas had set out to do from the start, which was to create an impressive dive watch.
How would he do that? The easy answer to that question is to marry the distinct VPC traits with the category codes that make a dive watch a great tool. But if you know Thomas, you will also understand that this answer is too simple. Most modern dive watches nowadays rarely venture into the deep waters of the world’s oceans; instead, they spend most of their time on dry land. Despite this, dive watches have become the most popular genre. Therefore, the idea for the Type 39VM was that it should be a great daily wearer that can also perform its professional tasks as a capable diver. While that is a nuance to many, it is the crux of finding the magic for the Type 39VM.
The details of the VPC Type 39VM
It is also what made the Type 37HW my most frequently worn watch of 2025. Thomas and designer Max Resnick created a watch that wears super comfortably. As I increase my mileage in the watch world, wearability has become an increasingly important factor in my decision to buy a particular watch. It is at least as important for me to love my Type 37HW for what it is as for how it looks, and with the inaugural release, Thomas successfully combined wearability and a pleasing aesthetic. He also made that his mission for the new Type 39VM, which has led to an impressive set of specifications.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a 47mm lug-to-lug, a slim 9.34mm thickness, and a 200m water resistance rating. Developing a 200m-rated dive watch with a sub-10mm profile is quite an achievement, but the 9.34mm measurement is extraordinary. It makes the Type 39VM the thinnest automatic dive watch with such a depth rating on the market today. While that was not one of the project’s defining goals from the start, it is a brilliant, distinctive feature that watch fans will love.
A natural progression from the Type 37HW
In terms of design, the new Type 39VM is a typical VPC watch. That might sound like a strange thing to say since it’s only the second release. However, as Fratello’s resident design snobs, Thomas and I have spent a considerable amount of time discussing aesthetics and how to create a design signature that is instantly recognizable and feels unique. That is exactly what Thomas and Max Resnick have accomplished. The case design follows the flowing lines of the Type 37HW. The design of the lugs and the way the bracelet elegantly “disappears” under the case is identical to that of the inaugural release, creating a design language that immediately feels familiar.
Another detail that defines both watches is the polished bevel of the lug that flows naturally into the case side. For the Type 39VM, it extends naturally into the narrow gap between the case sides and the knurled bezel. The mix of finishes, and especially the quality of the finishing, is spectacular. It is proof that Thomas does not make compromises when it comes to developing his watches. You will feel it the second you put the watch on your wrist, but it slowly becomes clearer in all the little details that have been thought out wonderfully and executed perfectly in production.
The geometrical symmetry that defines the dial and bezel design
Topping the elegant case is a 120-click unidirectional bezel featuring a matte black ceramic insert with a white diving scale. The white numerals and markings are flush and look almost like an ivory shade rather than a hard, sterile white. Additionally, they are luminescent and emit a bright blue glow in the dark. As on the Type 37HW, the case, bezel, and bracelet have a hard surface coating, which prevents scratches from accumulating as quickly as they would on untreated stainless steel. As an owner of a Type 37HW, I can say that the coating significantly enhances the daily pleasure of wearing the watch.
A flat sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the underside protects the two available dial variations. The combination of the bezel and sapphire crystal gives the watch a very flat face, and it’s impressive when viewed both straight on and from the side. Then you realize the remarkable effort that went into creating a watch this thin.
Plentiful detail
The space between the dial and the sapphire crystal is kept to a minimum while ensuring the hands can still hover effortlessly over the dial. It’s fascinating to see how little space there is between the crystal and the dial. It makes it even more impressive that the three hands are stacked in there and operate flawlessly. In terms of dials, the watch will be available in matte black Graphite and silvery-white Frost variations. Both dials feature a very subtle frosted texture and faceted, diamond-cut applied indexes that shimmer beautifully against their matte backdrop. Lastly, the hour markers are filled with BGW9 Super-LumiNova and light up blue, just like the bezel markings.
Intricacies for design lovers
Speaking of the bezel markings, Thomas worked with Samuel Baker again to create the typography for the new diver. Samuel developed the brand’s Venustas typeface that graces the upper part of the dials. For this new dive watch, he also created an adaptation that perfectly suits the tool-watch nature of the Type 39VM. The biggest challenges he had to tackle were achieving optimal legibility and creating numerals suitable for rendering on a circular plane. Barker optimized the spacing between the numerals and decided to lose the serifs. As a result, the numerals look clean and easy to read while maintaining a connection to the wordmark on the dial.
Additionally, the interplay between the bezel and the dial is based on some smart geometrical design solutions. The lumed triangle at the 0/60-minute mark features sides placed at a 30° angle. If you continue the lines across the dial, they end up at the inner bezel edge in the middle of the 20 and 40-minute markers. Draw a line between those two points as well, and you get a perfectly balanced triangle. Additionally, you can draw straight lines between the different markers across from each other on the bezel that will also be placed at the same angles. While these details are exciting to design enthusiasts, they also result in an aesthetic that looks balanced and logical to anyone.
The COSC-certified Sellita SW300-1b
Inside the case, you will find the top-grade Sellita SW300-1b caliber. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 56-hour power reserve. For the VPC Type 39VM, it is also a COSC-certified chronometer. As most of you will know, the Sellita SW300-1b is based on the ETA 2892-A2. It has a slender 3.6mm profile, which offered Thomas the chance to create this ultra-slim dive watch. The movement lies safely hidden behind a steel case back featuring the VPC logo and additional spec-related text about the caliber and the watch.
When it comes to straps and bracelets, you have two options. The first is a 20mm black fitted-end rubber strap with a branded pin buckle. This strap is made of high-quality, PFAS-free HNBR rubber and features a push-button quick-release mechanism. As a result, it is easy to swap this strap for another one or the fantastic steel bracelet. The new bracelet for the VPC Type 39VM is another impressive feature.
The intricacies of a great bracelet
One of the reasons I love wearing my Type 37HW is the bracelet. But this new bracelet is a step up in quality and practicality. It features the same three-row design but generally feels sturdier and has less horizontal play. The brushed finish is even more detailed, and the polished sides between the links provide a nice visual detail. Additionally, the way the bracelet naturally flows into the case is impressive. It follows the same design principle as VPC’s first release.
However, close inspection will reveal that the new bracelet has male end links rather than female ones. While the word “compromise” generally does not exist in Thomas’s vocabulary, this change was necessary to integrate a new quick-release system, which is slightly different from the one used for the previous release. The new mechanism features a central button that releases the bracelet, making it extremely easy to change it for a strap.
The clasp has also changed. Its overall design features slightly different straight edges that complement the case’s design nicely. Additionally, the micro-adjuster is an even better version that features a button to unlock the bracelet, making it easy to pull out. When pushing it back in, there’s no need to press the button. As a result, sizing the bracelet perfectly is super easy. Overall, this new bracelet is very comfortable to wear and provides all the practicality you could ask for.
Wearing the new VPC Type 39VM
So, how does all this translate to the wearing experience? In one word, brilliantly. I had a chance to wear the black-dial version of the VPC Type 39VM on the bracelet for two days, and I was nothing short of mesmerized by how good it was. You could think that I am biased, and you would be right. However, when Thomas first showed me the design sketches of the Type 39VM, I had my doubts. It wasn’t about Thomas’s capability to pull this off. Rather, it was more a question of personal preference.
Generally, I prefer dive-watch designs following the example set by the Rolex Submariner. This means a dial with round luminous indexes, preferably oversized for visual impact. Additionally, I like a dive bezel with hash marks for the first 15 minutes, as these add more functionality and detail to the bezel. But Thomas proved me wrong.
The moment I put the VPC Type 39VM on my wrist, something clicked. First off, the watch feels sturdy and has the right heft a tool watch needs, even with its slender profile. Speaking of which, the watch is impressively slim, which makes it sit comfortably on my 18.5cm (7.3″) wrist. But it also fit Daan’s smaller 16cm (6.3″) wrist nicely, showing its incredible versatility.
Wearing the Type 39VM reveals its true brilliance
Despite the watch’s seemingly modest presence, numerous intricate details showcase the brilliance in the design. Some examples are the shimmers of the polished indexes, the polished bevel of the case, and the beautiful, sharp hands. While it’s something I haven’t touched upon yet, the handset is another nice detail. The hour and minute hands have a design similar to those of the Type 37HW, but they are proportionally larger to suit the Type 39VM’s bigger case. As a result, there is more lume for better readability in the dark.
But there is more to it. The long central seconds and minute hands almost seem to touch the low rehaut as they smoothly make the rounds. Additionally, the tip of the seconds hand is exactly the same length as the hour markers, and the lumed part of the minute hand starts where the hour markers end. All these intricacies make me sincerely respect the work that Thomas and Max put into every little detail of the design. It results in a watch that is super comfortable to wear and looks stunning.
The VPC Type 39VM is a best-in-class dive watch
These details made me fall in love with the watch quickly. Despite my initial hesitations about the overall design, it just makes sense. Furthermore, the refinement kept me constantly coming back to admire the watch. It truly elevates the VPC Type 39VM to the next level of luxury. With this new release, VPC easily beats renowned brands in the same price segment in terms of design, quality, and detail. Most of all, Thomas has succeeded in creating a dive watch that wears like a dream while still performing its professional tasks effortlessly.
Availability and pricing
The new VPC Type 39VM is available for preorder now on the official VPC website. Depending on how the presale goes, VPC will produce a minimum of 300 and a maximum of 500 pieces of the Type 39VM. Thomas offered current VPC owners and people who registered their purchase intention via our newsletter one day of early access to the presale. However, he limited the quantities to just half of the maximum number of watches to ensure new customers also have the opportunity to purchase one.
You can choose between the Graphite and Frost versions on a black rubber strap for €2,768 (ex. taxes). On the stainless steel bracelet, the Type 39VM will cost €2,998 (ex. taxes). Lastly, you can also purchase the watch with both the rubber strap and the bracelet for €3,267 (ex. taxes). Deliveries are expected in 7–9 months after the presale. What you get in return is the best dive watch your money can buy at this price point.
Of course, you can debate the style of the Type 39VM, as design preferences are very personal. But it is hard to deny how good the VPC Type 39VM is from a quality perspective. This second model is a natural step up from the Type 37HW, and I am unaware of any other dive watch that provides as much comfort and style for the money. It makes the new Type 39VM a best-in-class dive watch, and for a small brand with its second release, that is nothing short of impressive.
If you’d like to learn more about the VPC Type 39VM or the brand, head to the VPC Watch Co. website.