In this hobby, we often use the term “tool watch” to describe a timepiece built for a specific, practical purpose. Traditionally, dive watches have dominated this category. These are timepieces engineered to withstand the depths of the ocean, with robust construction, water resistance, and legibility in mind. However, the rise of dive chronographs has added a new level of complexity and functionality to these tool watches.
A dive chronograph is a timepiece that not only offers the water resistance and durability of a traditional dive watch but also incorporates the sophisticated chronograph function, enabling precise timekeeping for events or tasks that require measurement to the second.
Why dive chronographs are so versatile
The fusion of hardy water resistance and precise timing creates a uniquely versatile timepiece that can serve a wide variety of professional and recreational needs. In this article, we will explore the benefits of dive chronographs as tool watches and showcase some of the most iconic models in the category. These include the watches from Aquastar, Tudor, Zodiac, Nivada Grenchen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Omega.
The rise of dive chronographs
Although not as common as standard dive watches, dive chronographs have been gaining traction in recent years. Whether it’s timing decompression stops during a dive or tracking elapsed time while racing or competing in timed events, the chronograph offers a practical function that elevates the usefulness of a dive watch.
At the same time, the dive-watch aspect of these timepieces ensures that they can handle extreme conditions. Dive watches are typically made from durable materials, such as stainless steel, titanium, or ceramic, and feature robust water resistance, often to 300 meters or more. They also typically come equipped with unidirectional bezels for tracking elapsed dive time, clear, legible dials, and highly luminescent hands and markers to ensure visibility in low-light or murky underwater environments. Combining these attributes with a chronograph function results in a tool that wearers can trust not only for underwater exploration but also for precision timekeeping in a wide range of other scenarios.
The Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph
The Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph is a prime example of a modern dive chronograph that honors the brand’s vintage heritage while pushing the boundaries of design and functionality. Aquastar, a Swiss brand known for its deep-sea diving timepieces, revived the Benthos 500 in 2024 with a contemporary twist. This watch is a tool for divers, with a solid 500m depth rating, a central chronograph for timing tasks, and an overall rugged design.
The Benthos 500 Chronograph stands out with its vintage aesthetic that nods to the original Benthos models of the 1970s while integrating modern materials and a La Joux-Perret caliber. Its rotating ceramic bezel, clear dial with high-visibility markings, and single pusher for the chronograph make it a versatile dive watch that could handle both deep dives and precise timekeeping. The robust 316L stainless steel case, paired with a sapphire crystal, ensures the watch can withstand extreme pressures, while the central chronograph provides an elegant solution for timing tasks, underwater or otherwise, to the second. To learn more about it, read Mike’s review here.
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono is a stunning example of blending the brand’s iconic dive-watch heritage with a chronograph function inspired by motorsports. The Black Bay Chronograph retains the classic aesthetics of the Black Bay collection, like the blocky case and Snowflake handset, while also integrating a chronograph function powered by the Breitling 01-based caliber MT5813.
With a 200m water resistance rating, the Black Bay Chrono is more than capable of handling underwater use, making it a reliable companion for diving adventures. The chronograph’s screw-down pushers eliminate the risk of inadvertently engaging them while underwater and letting water into the case. At the same time, the chronograph can time dives up to 45 minutes or even racing laps or other sporting events on land. The Black Bay Chrono’s classic design, combined with its durable and precise functionality, makes it a worthy option for anyone looking for a versatile dive chronograph.
The Zodiac Sea-Chron
Zodiac, a brand long associated with creating dive watches that blend style and performance, introduced the Sea-Chron as part of its ongoing commitment to high-performance tool watches. The Sea-Chron is a dive chronograph that stands out not only for its excellent water resistance but also for its bold, striking design. Our managing editor, Nacho, has even taken this watch scuba diving!
The Sea-Chron has a 200m depth rating, making it suitable for recreational divers and those who require a robust timepiece for various underwater activities. Its chronograph function is a key highlight, providing wearers with the ability to measure elapsed time with precision, whether timing a dive, measuring an event, or recording elapsed time during other activities. With its large, legible dial, distinct hour markers, and bold color choices, the Zodiac Sea-Chron is as much a statement piece as it is a functional tool. It’s designed for those who want a dive chronograph that is both practical and stylish, making it an excellent option for divers and watch enthusiasts alike.
The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver
The Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster is an iconic watch that combines aviation, diving, and chronograph features into one multifunctional timepiece. Originally introduced in the early 1960s, the Chronomaster was revived with modern updates to meet the demands of today’s watch enthusiasts and professionals. This watch, as its full name suggests, is designed for aviators and divers alike, combining a chronograph function with a water-resistant design that’s capable of handling both aerial and underwater environments.
With a 200m water resistance rating, the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver is more than adequate for recreational diving, and the chronograph allows for precise timing up to 30 minutes. The retro design of the Chronomaster adds a layer of charm and uniqueness, with its distinct pushers and sub-dial layout. Indeed, it is a well-rounded dive chronograph that offers not only durability and precision but also a nod to the golden age of tool watches.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Chronograph offers a sophisticated take on the dive chronograph, combining the brand’s luxurious design sensibilities with the ruggedness required for underwater activities. The Polaris Chronograph features a 100m water resistance rating, which, while not as high as some of the other models mentioned, is still more than sufficient for most recreational diving.
The chronograph function is beautifully integrated into the design, with a clean dial and a set of well-positioned pushers that allow the wearer to operate the stopwatch mechanism easily. The watch’s polished case and elegant design make it just as suitable for wearing in a formal setting as it is for use as a tool during a dive. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph proves that a dive chronograph doesn’t have to sacrifice style for function.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph
Finally, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph is a true legend in this category. Omega’s Seamaster collection is synonymous with diving, and the inclusion of the chronograph function in the Diver 300M model enhances its already impressive capabilities. With a 300m depth rating, this watch can easily handle the rigors of deep-sea diving. The 12-hour chronograph functionality, powered by Omega’s caliber 9900 movement, allows for precise time measurement in various situations, from timing dives to sporting events.
The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph maintains Omega’s tradition of combining luxury with performance. It features a ceramic bezel, a helium escape valve, and an intricate wave-patterned dial, all of which contribute to its iconic design. The design of the chronograph pushers perfectly suits the case, ensuring the watch’s functionality doesn’t detract from its overall aesthetic. This model remains one of the best dive chronographs on the market today.
The appeal of dive chronographs
Dive chronographs are versatile, multifunctional watches that combine the best features of two of the most popular watch genres. By offering both water resistance and precise timekeeping, they cater to the needs of divers, athletes, and professionals who require reliability and accuracy. Models like the Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph, Tudor Black Bay Chrono, Zodiac Sea-Chron, Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster, Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, and Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph showcase the range and capabilities of this genre, offering something for everyone, from vintage-inspired designs to cutting-edge movements.
I would add that it would be great to see the legendary Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph make a return. The brand released it as a limited edition, but that has now sold out. A serial-production version would be a compelling option! Watches like this are not merely fashion statements; they are robust, reliable timepieces built to withstand extreme conditions while providing the precise tools needed for both underwater exploration and land-based events. Whether you’re an avid diver, an athlete, or simply someone who appreciates the elegance of a well-crafted tool watch, the dive chronograph is the ultimate combination of form and function.