L’Oréal Group acquired Mugler from former owner Clarins in 2020, and remains the only wholly owned fashion brand in its stable. (L’Oréal made a minority stake investment in Jacquemus in February, but only as part of a deal to launch the brand’s beauty line. The beauty group has said it will not increase its stake.) L’Oréal doesn’t break out revenues of individual brands, but Corsin told Vogue Business in September 2024 that Mugler fashion grew by the high double digits in 2023, driven by Asia, a strong denim business and the launch of leather goods like the Spiral Curve bag. However, fragrance is still believed to be the cash cow of the Mugler brand, with popular scents including Angel and Alien.
The expectation is that Castro Freitas will allow us to “rediscover the extraordinary magic of Mugler”, said Lahana-Aidenbaum. “In the times we’re living in, we want to see beauty and poetry [from fashion].”
Here’s what industry insiders had to say.
Lauren Amos, founder of Wish ATL and Ant/dote
Gone is the Mugler party girl of the last eight years: these are the clothes of a grown woman. The collection felt more restrained than the demi-couture exuberance of Casey Cadwallader’s runways, but Miguel Castro Freitas maintained an edge with little injections of kink. The latex leggings and suit felt like a blink-twice moment, but it hit home when the nipple piercing dress walked in look 36.
Judd Crane, executive director of brand and buying at Selfridges
I thought it was a very confident re-establishment of the brand’s codes. The possibilities for evolution from here are really exciting.
Law Roach, celebrity stylist
I thought it was a very beautiful debut. I thought the way he referenced Mr Mugler’s work was incredible. He gave us what we expected from this house, which is great tailoring and tailored latex. There’s a lot for my clients. I’m starting to think of the things that I’ll do when it’s time to promote Dune: Part Three, [maybe] those sandy colours.
Hetty Mahlich, editor of Show Studio
The emphasis on tailoring felt like a continuation of the brand’s focus on situating the fantasy associated with Mugler in reality, taking the signature hourglass shape from more classic tailoring fabrics into latex and satin. It felt like a collection covering all bases, without getting bogged down by archive references. But I do feel, perhaps due to commercial pressures, this played it a bit safe for a Mugler debut.