Tucked into the honeyed stone embrace of Kingham, where houses are both spacious and usually only visited at weekends, The Plough is the sort of Cotswolds pub that could easily coast on its postcard-perfect charm, and indeed has been known to in former incarnations. Yet, under the stewardship of owner Matt Beamish and head chef Ashleigh Farrand, the Plough is not merely costing on its laurels. Instead, it delivers a dining experience that balances rustic warmth with gastronomic ambition, in a superbly comfortable setting that epitomises Cotswold charm.
One arrives at The Plough with expectations of hearty, no-nonsense fare, and Farrand’s menu does not disappoint. The lyonnaise salad, a starter of crisp frisée, bacon lardons, and a perfectly poached egg, is a masterclass in simplicity. The dressing, tangy with mustard and vinegar, cuts through the richness of the crisp lardons, while the egg yolk spills forth like liquid sunshine.
It’s the kind of plate that makes you forgive the French their occasional culinary arrogance. Pork scratchings, meanwhile, are a revelation. These are not the sad, stale pub snacks of yore but golden, airy shards of porcine delight, melting in the mouth and on the tongue. They are, quite frankly, addictive—a bar snack elevated to an art form, with a welcome touch of the Frazzle.
The mains, however, are where The Plough flexes its culinary muscle, though not without a hiccup. The brill, glistening and promising on its bed of buttery greens, arrives with a catch: it is riddled with bones. A fish of this pedigree deserves better filleting, and one can’t help but feel that the kitchen’s ambition outstripped its precision here. Each bite is a gamble, with delicate, pearlescent flesh marred by the occasional skeletal interruption. It’s a pity, for the cooking is otherwise faultless.
By contrast, the venison haunch is a triumph that could make a vegetarian reconsider their pitiful principles. Served blushing pink, the meat is tender yet robust, its gamey depth amplified by a glossy juniper-spiked jus and a side of roasted root vegetables that taste as though they were plucked from the earth moments before. It’s the kind of dish that demands silence at the table, save for the occasional murmur of appreciation.
My daughter, less inclined toward such grown-up fare, was thoroughly charmed by her fish and chips. The cod, encased in a batter so crisp it practically crackles, yields to flaky, snow-white flesh, while the chips, proper, hand-cut behemoths, are golden and fluffy within. A smear of tartare sauce and a wedge of lemon complete the picture, and her beaming approval speaks louder than any critic’s prose.
To wash it all down, a carafe of Picpoul de Pinet proves an inspired choice. This Languedoc white, with its bright, citrus-driven verve, cuts through the richness of the food superbly. For the heartier venison and brill, we turn to a bottle of Vinha Grande from Portugal’s Douro Valley, a red of such elegance and depth, with notes of ripe blackberries and a whisper of spice, that it feels like a steal at any price.
The atmosphere is as much a draw as the food. The Plough exudes that effortless Cotswolds charisma: low beams, flagstone floors, and a fire that crackles with just the right amount of invitation. Service is warm, if occasionally stretched during busier moments, but the staff’s genuine friendliness enthusiasm for the food and drink on offer makes up for any minor lapses.
The Plough is not just a pub; it’s a destination in its own right, a place where the Cotswolds’ pastoral beauty meets culinary flair with enough swagger to make you forgive its flaws. One leaves sated, charmed, and already plotting a return. Is next weekend too soon?
The Plough, The Green, Kingham, Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire OX7 6YD. For more information, including details of rooms, and for bookings, please visit www.thekinghamplough.co.uk.