Welcome to Checking In, a review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue in cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
Hôtel Royal, Evian-les-Bains, France
Hôtel Royal, overlooking Lake Geneva, debuted in 1909 as a royal tribute and continues to host dignitaries to this day.
In three words: Regally relaxing wellness
The basics
Built in honor of King Edward VII of England, this Belle Epoque beauty set just above the shores of Lake Geneva has been a beloved getaway for royals, world leaders, and the celeb set since opening in 1909: Recent VIP guests include French President Emmanuel Macron, and Hôtel Royal will host the prestigious 2026 G7 Summit. The resort is also decades ahead of the modern-day wellness trend, thanks to its location in the birthplace of Evian mineral water, whose health benefits have been championed by locals for centuries. (Fun fact: It’s owned by Evian parent company Danone.)
In fact, the resort’s 18,000-square-foot spa, which unveiled a massive renovation in early 2024, is the first Evian-branded spa in Europe, leaning into the region’s natural assets with an elaborate hydrotherapy circuit of outdoor baths, snow room, cold plunge, and stunning indoor pool. Traditional offerings and sauna exist as well, but this is an ideal opportunity to indulge in a Water Journey Ritual—a 150-minute therapist-led treatment featuring hydromassage in a private steam room—one of about a dozen treatments inspired by the life cycle of Evian water.
Adventurous types, meanwhile, have plenty to keep them busy, thanks to a dedicated Sports and Culture team that can arrange everything from a quad-busting hike or skiing at several resorts in the region, including tony Chamonix, to a private tee time on the resort’s links. However, a must-do for any stay: Venture into town to fill a bottle with the world-famous local liquid, right from a tap in the hillside called the Cachat Source. The water has flowed nonstop for more than a century—the final step of a 15-year journey down from its origin in the French Alps, gathering minerals along the way.
The best room
The living room of the Royale Suite penthouse.
For families accustomed to the royal treatment, the aptly named Royale Suite (from 10,000 euros, about $11,600 per night) fits the bill. Featuring the Belle Epoque design style of the hotel (and city of Evian itself), the penthouse is 2,200 square feet across two separate bedrooms and bathrooms, plus a massive living room with a pool table and pre-stocked bar with French wine, Champagne, and, of course, Evian. There’s another 700 square feet of terrace space equipped with loungers, ideal for soaking up all that fresh alpine air and views of the Alps, Lake Geneva, and, across the lake, Lausanne in Switzerland.
Couples, meanwhile, can opt for the Belle Epoque Suite (from $3,300 per night). At just over 1,000 square feet, it’s cozier than its Royale counterpart but no less ooh la la, with a separate bedroom, massive bathroom, furnished terraces, and stunning lake views.
The Rundown
Greeted by name at check-in?
Bien sûr, and if it suits your fancy, feel free to flex your French skills at the front desk. The hotel also can arrange a private Mercedes transfer from the Geneva Airport; guests with a helicopter at their disposal can touch down on the property’s helipad and be poolside with a cocktail in minutes.
Welcome drink ready and waiting? (Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice)
Book a suite, and you’ll find a perfectly chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot ready to pop and pour as soon as you arrive. You can also request a bottle of sparkling wine sans alcohol: The property partners with French Bloom, a zero-proof sparkling wine co-founded by French model Constance Jablonski and Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger, whose husband comes from Champagne Taittinger fame.
Private butler in the room?
Butlers are available on request. However, the resort’s concierge is on hand for any possible need, be it tee times, a private sailing on Lake Geneva, or an exclusive tasting at any of the area’s wineries.
Cozier than the penthouse, the Belle Epoque Suite (from $3,300 per night) is no less decadent.
Sheet thread count 300 or higher?
Buttery soft linens are by Garnier Thiebaut, an esteemed French brand that has been servicing high-end hospitality clients since 1833. Guests can also choose from a pillow menu, and nightly turndown service includes herbal tea and, fittingly, mini Evian facial spritzers sitting bedside.
Heated floor in the bathroom or a bidet? Or both?
Bathrooms do not have heated floors, and, somewhat surprisingly for France, only certain suites feature bidets. Even so, these powder rooms are nearly perfect: palatial, all-marble spaces with large soaking tubs, twin vanities, and separate rain water showers.
Are the toiletries full sized?
Yes, by Paris-based Atelier Cologne, with shampoo, conditioner, and lotions in downright divine scents like Pomelo Paradis. (Fortunately, there are also hotel-sized ones, too, which means you can guiltlessly stash a few in your toiletry kit.) Also on hand: full-sized Evian facial spritzers, so there’s no excuse for not keeping your visage properly hydrated.
Private pool for the room’s exclusive use?
Alas, no. But there are plenty of ways to take a dip, including a heated outdoor infinity pool that visually blends into Lake Geneva, a heated indoor pool in the spa, and the outdoor hydrotherapy circuit. Don’t forget about Lake Geneva itself: You’ll earn big-time bragging rights if you join locals for a bracing dip in its clear water.
Wellness continues into the night at the Evian spa outdoor hydrotherapy circuit.
Worth spending Friday night in the bar?
At least Friday night (and ideally, Saturday, Sunday, Monday …). Cocktail hour takes on a new level of luxury in the Grand Salon, located just past the lobby. Neo-Baroque frescoes painted by French artist Gustave Louis Jaulmes, whose work also appears in Paris’s Musée Rodin, are a highlight. After an aperitif or two, make your way to Michelin-starred Les Fresques, whose name nods to Jaulmes’ masterpieces (which also grace the ceiling of the dining room).
Caviar on room service menu?
Thanks to an exclusive partnership with Paris-based producer Prunier, this is the only hotel where you can indulge in the brand’s caviar. It’s available in 30mL or 50mL portions (along with—what else?—an accompanying Champagne list).
Would you buy this hotel if you could?
Oui! This grand dame is an elegant embodiment of everything there is to love about France, from its obsession with gastronomy to its reverence for tradition and style. But since freelance writer fees barely cover a meal here, I’ll have to stick to daydreaming.
T’is the season for a cherry-red cocktail.
Hotel Royal
The Verdict
Hôtel Royal is the only five-star property in the region, thriving for more than a century in the highly competitive sector of luxury hospitality. Heads of state, royalty, rock stars, and other A-listers have exacting standards when it comes to their home(s) away from home, from room decor to gastronomy to staff. Hôtel Royal delivers across the board on all of those, with its own je nais se quoi appeal.
Rates from: $700
Total Score: 8
What Our Score Means:
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?